Restaurant Review: Drewton’s Supper Club

My Yorkshire Post restaurant review of a new Saturday night eaterie.

Drewton's interior

The Great Estate

A couple of years ago not many people would have bet on the A1034 between South Cave and Market Weighton becoming a key culinary route through East Yorkshire. Yet today this pleasant but unremarkable 8-mile stretch of minor road can boast a multiple award winning gastropub in the shape of the Star at Sancton, it’s seen the relocation of Hull’s popular Boar’s Nest to the Rudston Walk hotel and then the arrival of Drewton’s at the Drewton Estate – a farm shop/ deli/ butchers/ tea room which is now dipping it’s toe in fine dining. If this pattern continues the A1034 may well soon find itself renamed ‘Restaurant Row’ or (and I’d love it if this happened) ‘Gastronaut Gulch’.

Drewton’s farm shop opened in late 2010 and it’s offering of local produce, in-store butchered meat and top national artisan produce proved an instant hit with the riding’s foodies. The complex was purpose-built behind a farmhouse on the Drewton estate and is located around 2 miles north of South Cave. Its handsome barn-style buildings also include a café area, kitchen shop and a dedicated dining room. It’s in this dining room that fine dining is being offered, on Saturday nights only for the time being until a reputation is established and a regular clientele enticed into the countryside.

Seared scallops with black pudding and avocado and chilli salsa 03

Without wishing to start with an unrepresentative negative point, one issue they will have to try and solve is the lack of a holding area. When you arrive for the Supper Club – as Saturday nights have been dubbed – you enter the dining room and are immediately sat at your table. The option of starting your evening with a drink in the bar while you peruse the menu would be very welcome.

That minor gripe aside, the rest of the experience is wonderful. The 30-odd seater dining room is wood-floored, stone-walled and a little ‘bistro-y’ but it’s nicely lit, with chalk boards and arty photos on the walls and a pleasant jazz-tinged soundtrack. Our waitress Sara (a credit to the place, incidentally) brought us a flaky, crusty fresh-baked half loaf and as we dipped chunks into the accompanying oil and balsamic reduction and we got our chance to unwind and begin debating the menu.
Roasted partridge with roasted vegetables and cranberry jus

We plump for a spicy beef and tomato soup, which had a deep, beefy taste but was a tad over-blitzed in the blender, and a superb plate of seared scallops with black pudding and avocado and chilli salsa. I know what you’re thinking but the avocado and chilli went surprisingly well with the perfectly cooked scallops and the tender, yielding, made-on-the-premises black pudding. There were also sun-dried tomatoes scattered around which deserved equal billing as they stand their ground well against the other ingredients. At £5.25 and £6.50 respectively both were decent portions and good value.Not that there is too much to debate. Four starters, four mains and four desserts is the sensibly minimal choice and every one of them is a either a British classic or a British classic with a twist. Local produce is identified throughout and while we may not know much about the provenance of head Chef Adam Banks himself (I later find out that he has a decade of experience working in various local kitchens) he has designed a simple, tempting menu with all of the options reading as well as the next.

Mains were a rib eye of Yorkshire beef with grilled toms, field mushroom, chunky chips (stacked Jenga-style, predictably) and béarnaise sauce – a solid return for anyone’s £17.55 – and Drewton’s estate roasted partridge with roasted vegetables and cranberry jus. The estate is best-known for its game and was ably represented by this sample, a moist bird with plenty of meat on it. The delicious roasted veg included peppers, courgette and new tatties and the jus was laced with a few dozen juicy whole cranberries. At a very reasonable £15.45, it would have been dish of the night, but then desserts arrived…

Sticky toffee pudding and vanilla ice cream

The Baileys and toffee cheesecake on the other side of the table went down a treat but my sticky toffee pudding with vanilla ice cream won the day by a comfortable couple of laps. Now, we all know you can’t beat a good STP but I promise you that you would have to go fair way to beat this particular one. I can’t say it was the best sticky toffee pudding in the world (after all there may be a better one s

erved somewhere in Mongolia that I don’t know about) but it was certainly the best one I’ve ever had. It had everything – stickiness, softness, tack from the melted dates and, as the ice cream finally melted over the last of it, a small fight broke out over who would get the final spoonful (I won thanks to a deftly executed headlock).

When any restaurant finds one thing they do supremely well they must protect it and ensure they maintain it as a speciality of the house. Pay heed Drewton’s, because that STP will definitely bring people back for more.

Desserts were £5 to £7.65 and with wines starting from around £19 the whole evening delivered six solid dishes, one bottle of red and two full bellies for a relatively reasonable £75.

The Saturday Supper Club at Drewton’s is currently an experiment in cautious expansion by this new-found but canny venture. Judging by the experience we had last Saturday night I hope it’s an experiment that finds favour with the public. Locally-sourced food this good is a very welcome addition to East Yorkshire’s culinary map and Drewton’s Supper Club may well become another memorable stopping point along the A1034’s nascent gastronomic route.

Open: Saturday nights only 6:30 to 10PM.

The Drewton Estate

South Cave

Nr Brough

East Yorkshire

HU15 2AG

Tel: 01430 425079

http://www.drewtons.co.uk

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Categories: Restaurant Review, Writing, Yorkshire Post

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